Casual Wear @ FWTT: Not jus a baby tee and jeans!

I have a personal belief, that because we in the Caribbean grow up wearing uniforms every day, this really shapes our attitude towards clothes in our adulthood. I doh know bout you, but when I was a kid I had school uniform, home clothes and party clothes (my personal fave! Who didn't love the opportunity to put on a patterned waistcoat and matching cuffed short pants an roll up in somebody 3-6pm birthday party!). Somehow, however, this culture of dressing has transmitted into my adulthood. My clothes fall into three main categories: what I wear to work, what I wear at home and what I go out in. When I buy new clothes they are almost always going out clothes because I cannot wrap my head around the idea of buying clothes for no occasion really.

When I do need to pull out an outfit to wear to a house lime, to the movies, or even just to the grocery store or errand running, I often find that I have nothing between holey big jerseys and dresses covered in sequins (ok maybe thats an exaggeration, but you get my point!) I find in my observations when I am at home that young Caribbean women seem to find themselves in this situation a lot and just pull on a baby tee and a pair of jeans for these occasions.

I was so excited to see new casual wear options emerging on the Fashion Week runways, especially from trusted and established brands like Radical Designs (I would wear those t-shirt dresses with the prints ANYWHERE...really). There were many items made in comfortable cotton jersey with trendy details like the large boatnecks and ombre colours in Meiling's MSquared line and how refreshing was it to see an actual pair of JEANS on the runway from Earth Member for Life!!! Some designers went a little further to show that the casual could also be classy and elegant with loose, flowing daytime looks in longer lengths and more sumptuous fabrics, such as this dress by Zadd and Eastman.



Styling these casual looks with a variety of tried and true everyday items like flip flops and tote bags really showed that the designers wanted their clothes to be part of the Caribbean woman's every day. Very nice!!

More in the slideshow below:



All pics courtesy Triniscene

Collection Review: Pilar by Anya Ayoung Chee

On Fashion Week Sunday, former Miss T&T Universe (actually she's probably still current Miss T&T Universe as I hear we not sending up nobody this year....) Anya Ayoung Chee debuted her collection, Pilar. To say that this collection had some of the hottest buzz for the whole fashion week event would be an understatement. And designer was not the only hat Anya donned for the event! Not only was the public's eyes peeled for things to criticize in her collection, her new modeling and talent agency Fuse The Agency, had screened and selected all the Fashion Week models! Pressha!

Despite these stressful factors, I was pleasantly impressed with Anya's showing, especially considering that this her first time out the gate! My main comment was that the collection "looked like Anya", which can be good and bad. Anya has a distinctive personal style and it definitely came through in the wearable and cohesive collection, but if one were to purchase an item from her collection would one lose a feeling of individuality, because you look so much like someone else? Hmmm....

Regardless, I love the way she brought together disparate cultural elements to create her looks. Dashiki-style shirts in African print fabric were belted at the waist with Japanese style obi belts adorned with rope and paired with shorttt (saw a good bit of boomsie cheek on the runway) pants in vibrant colours, which as we all know well, always have an appeal with Caribbean women. I love how Anya included a variety of garments in the collection: dresses, shirts, shorts, and even a bright yellow jacket showing the audience that she has the potential to vary her designs and not stick to just one thing! The collection was also replete with jumpsuits: short and long (with skinny tapered legs). Anya also provides options for those of us ladies who prefer more modest fits and cuts, with full length, high-waisted skirts and maxi dresses all of which fit the models exceptionally well. (I guess running the agency has it's benefits ;) )

My favourite pieces, however, have to be the jumpsuits, particulary the strapless one that opened the show in metallic African print! I'm so excited to see fashion I actually would want to wear on the Caribbean runways (this is a first for me) and as soon as I find out where Anya will be selling her items, my name will be on the list for one of these!


Enjoy the rest in the slideshow below:



(all pics courtesy www.triniscene.com)

BTW: Congrats Sandhurst!

Evening Wear at FWTT: Not Your Every Day Grad Dress...

Some truly spectacular gowns were shown at this year's event. While Claudia Pegus and Zadd and Eastman chose sleek silhouettes, others, like Peter Elias presented full skirted confections which the models made into shows of their own (I am convinced the young lady above has a side hustle as a Belle Dancer!)

My personal prize however goes to Kuumba Design's light lime green evening gown below:

The construction of the corset-type bodice is supremely innovative while the neckline and horizontal and vertical pleating are structurally fascinating. I love that it blossoms into this fairy-tale like full skirt as well. While I love the unexpected color of this dress, I can so see this as a wedding dress in an off-white or ivory!

Feast your eyes on the rest below (you can click any image for a larger view):
(pics courtesy www.triniscene.com)

Collection Review - Meiling feat. Anthony Reid

Can I just say that I love this collection.

To use a played out phrase....talk bout grown and sexy! This was the perfect collection for that young woman trying to figure out how to structure her look to be sexy, current, but still be taken seriously! Not only were the pieces uniquely wearable, each look contained some sort of detail which captured visual interest. A couple of these details were problematic (I had to stare at the pic of the coral blazer for a really long time to realize that the hem had been sewn in that ruffle/fold and this wasn't some static-cling related wardrobe malfunction) most of them were flattering and came off effortlessly. However, most of them came off beautifully. I love the architectural folds at the necklines, dramatic open backs, and the ruffles at the hems of sleeves, tops and skirts (particularly the ruffles found at the hem of the back of one of the skirts, an interesting take on a bustle a feature I am seeing becoming popular in international designs, and obviously meant to be worn on a woman with no bottom!). I also really liked the asymmetrical cut hemlines with contrasting fabric colours peeking out from below complete with raw edges. It may not be everybody's style, but SOOO interesting.

AND THE FABRIC! Omg, I love that diaphanous almost see-through look of the pieces. And the items made in that dyed fabric that looks like a classy take on a hybrid of tie-dye and tea staining! LOVEEEE IT!!!

The menswear by Anthony Reid was also really impressive! The colours and fabrics fit easily in with the womenswear looks and were also totally wearable and current in light comfortable fabrics that look perfect for the Caribbean climate!

But my absolute number one favourite thing in this whole presentation had to be this right here:


I would wear a top with a back like this today! Like seriously please I want one. And I love the backwards placement of the chain. Omg, I just die...

Check out the front of this look, and some of my other faves from the Meiling Collection in the slideshow below.




pics courtesy Triniscene & Caribbean Fashion Style Journal

Collection Review: Sonia Mack

Quick note about my collection reviews:

I don't believe that because a designer is established and well known that they shouldn't be criticized. Without criticism there is complacency. Without criticism no one can strive for excellence.

Here we go.

So if I were a Project Runway judge I would definitely be Michael Kors. His observations are always linked to some sort of reference which can range from the simple and cutting (e.g. "That was so Paris Hooker 50s") to really really mean (e.g. "She looks like Barefoot Appalachian Lil' Abner Barbie!"). Similarly, as soon as I see a look on the runway I try to make a connection as to what type of woman I can see wearing the ensemble. Such referencing is not always complimentary. (Btw, Project Runway is moving to Lifetime this year so all the Trini Fashionistas who were not able to see it when it was on Bravo can now be exposed to the fabulousness).

Sonia Mack is one of the designers who I believe was overzealous. First of all this is like 4 or 5 collections in one. In fact I thought it was four separate collections, and given to exaggerating, when I realized it was all one collection at first perceived it to be like 80 looks (more like 30 lol). Let's discuss some of these mini collections in detail:

The long handkerchief hemlines, and large face obscuring headpieces called to mind only one client for these looks in Sonia Mack's collection: sexy La Diablesse! I almost expected to see a cloven hoof emerge from beneath the skirts of the models and could imagine the stage manager screaming at them as they came on to the stage: "REMEMBER GIRLS, LIMP! LIMP!" If I were a man in the audience I would have been running to the bathroom fas fas to turn my clothes inside out!

Further, I understand experimenting with different textures and fabrics but I am totally confused by using textures that obscure the customer's figure and overtake the body like some sort of weird algae. Further, the curly tendrils that spring from many of her pieces look like they belong on the last choice costume in a sold out Carnival Band! I know Sonia Mack is a renowned costume designer as well but is this really the arena for you to show off that skill? Or do you really believe that Caribbean women should be dressing with an element of mas every day?

As for this, I can only imagine this is what Tan Tan (a woman renowned for her predeliction for curly elements on an outfit) might select to wear to Saga Boy's funeral.

And then realizing her new single status, she would then strip down to this sexy little number:

You go Tan Tan! An good man is hard to find!

And then when she finally does find her new 18 foot love, Ms. Mack has also provided a bridal look for dear Tan Tan!



But at least I can figure out clients for those looks (as fictional as they might be). Some of the other pieces of the collection just confuse me. The crocheted fringe evening wear/lingerie??? The champagne coloured satin suit that puckered at the seams? The fuchsia corset and miniskirt that found a place smack dab in the middle of a few East Indian inspired garments????? (Actually this doesn't confuse me as much. She obviously had some material left over and didn't want it to waste.) And a better question: How do these pieces relate to each other??

Honestly I think Ms. Mack needed to have decided what she wanted to make for fashion week: costumes or garments. (And then asked herself where on earth these garments were meant to be worn?) She landed somewhere squarely in between and the results were not impressive.

pics courtesy www.triniscene.com

Fashion Week Friday: What I Liked

Heather Jones' military inspired blazer - LOVE IT!

So last Friday was the opening night of TT Fashion Week and as I wasn't there I really can't comment on the location, venue, crowd, food or drinks. (I'm still sour.)

Pictures gone up tho, so I can comment on my favourite part of a fashion show, the fashion.

The designers chosen to show this night for the theme "Breaking Ground" were a mix of newcomers as well as seasoned professionals. They were, in order of presentation: Heather Jones Designs Ltd, DLR 'D', Faraii, Michael's Vogue Designs, Sonia Mack, Millhouse Menswear, Brown Sugar and CPFS (Claudia Pegus Frederick St).

Immediately some issues with the collections jumped out at me. I will do an overall post later on after I have seen all the collections, detailing each of these but I just wanted to go over them quickly here. If Caribbean Fashion is ever to reach the levels of the New Yorks, Parises and Milans, criticism should be necessary and accepted.

That being said:

1. Wearability: I understand that not everyone wants to make fashion for every Tara, Dana and Harriet to wear on the street. However from looking at these fashion shows I had a very hard time distinguishing who was designing haute couture, who was designing ready to wear, who was designing Carnival costumes, and who just wanted to show off what they could do with fabric (resemblance to actual clothes being minimal).

2. Cohesiveness: I feel like a Fashion Show should be just that, a show. As such there should be an underlying theme or at least a connectivity between each of the pieces so that we can understand the designer's point of view. A couple of the collections on the first night looked as if they could not decide what woman they were designing for.

3. Overzealousness: which leads to problems in finishing and fit. A fashion collection does not have to be 45 looks! However, if it is, each of those 45 looks need to be finished BEAUTIFULLY and fitted perfectly on the model otherwise it just looks like crap! (yeah, I said it!) So if you don't have time to do 45 looks, properly steam your items, press your seams and hems so that they don't pucker (this also has a lot to do with fabric choice) or fit to your models, stick to 12 and make them IMPECCABLE! If I could pick out these flaws in the pics, I really can't imagine what some of these pieces must have looked like on the runway. And if you insist on doing long sleeved swimwear, let's not make that sleeve so baggy that it might drown a swimmer in distress when waterlogged!

4. Fabric Choice: Cheap fabric looks cheap. Talk dun.

5. Editing: Not every element you envisioned on your garment needs to end up on the final piece. Really, a burnout velvet print pajama suit with marabou feather trim? Honestly? Also I think this is important in the styling of the models as well as the sewing of the garments. Many of the accessories used either annoyed me or completely confused me For example, look at how this large coloured scarf obscures the workmanship on this dress bodice. And you going to couple that with a pallet stick headpiece? Its a wonder anyone looked at your garment at all!!

OH AND DONT GET ME STARTED ON THIS!

Oh...but this was supposed to be a post about what I liked right?



That being said, I feel like certain designers really know their client and their customer and you could just see exactly who their designs were meant to be for. Heather Jones was one of these with her signature hand painted floral motifs, and vibrantly coloured rich fabrics. Usually I am not attracted to this kind of fashion for myself but I was most excited to see some more modern elements brought into the pieces (and by that I do not mean the shutter shades that the male models were wearing....I really don't believe fashion designers should be biting the coattails of already played out trends in their presentations). Can somebody tell Madame Jones that I would like to order this here jumpsuit toute suite! (And one in white too please thanx). Also the sunshine yellow military jacket above is fabulous and impeccably styled (although I can't help but wish there was a lil hand painted scarf tied around the model's neck....hmm maybe its a lil too Bwee tho...ok forget I said anything).

I also enjoyed seeing the younger, unknown designers trying something new. This look from Michael's Vogue Designs really had nothing else to do with any of the other pieces in the collection and could have used some serious editing (read no furry collar or cuffs) but I'm loving how he is experimenting with layering and we can see from the outfit that this is a designer who can make jackets, vests, pants and blouses. (He also is the dude who makes marabou feather pajama suits...again EDITING).

I loved the two monochromatic looks in the collection by Brown Sugar. Again they fit in nowhere with the bright coloured satin dresses that dominated this show (cohesiveness people, oh and finishing too! Satin will show all flaws!) but I liked that they demonstrated that they could take a geometric fabric such as this one and do something really funky then something equally simple and classic and pull off both looks. Thumbs up newcomers!

Obviously, all pics courtesy www.triniscene.com

Beach House...the Aftermath

Madame Socialite has posted her Beach House Review at Welcome To Triniwood! She talks about her fave looks and her...least faves.

I won't spoil the surprises.

Just click the link.